We always get a few days each month here where roads are dry for several days and skies are blue. I will ride then but temps have to be above 40-45 or I stay home. No ice unless I get into the mountains which I save for after winter.

I'm no expert but my bikes are on battery tenders. I also cover them after they cool off from a long Friday day ride. My 1100 is now over a year old so it is starting to get the tender full time like my 88 Hawk. My Hawk sets the most, but I try to only let it sit with a full tank (I hear moisture will condense above the gas line) and try to run the Hawk about every 30 days minimum but only because I don't put Stabil in the tank. My 1100 never sets 30 days. My power generator sits for 3-4 months so I use Stabil in it. I always hook up a battery tender fused wire setup directly to the battery and have the capped pigtail within access, so I don't have to pull the seat to get to it. My generator has electric start so about twice a month I put the battery tender on it too. I have a voltmeter and like to keep it above 12 volts.

I do put a pad under the Hawk's front tire as it has a center stand which raises the rear wheel off the cold concrete in the garage. The 1100 is heavier and if I were to store it, I would get the wheels up somehow off the ground or at lease an inch pad under it on your dolly (not sure that is safe or possible). Three months to me seems long for tire to be sitting on one spot.

Good luck with whatever you settle on.

 

It is cold around cincinnati but you can still ride I ride at least once a week though out winter, not long but long enough to get up to operating temp and my bikes have all been fine and that's two supersports and two rebels. Bikes always on stands though out the year.

 

As an add on comment, heated gear has come a long way and on clear winter days (ice free roads) it will allow you to be comfortable if you are missing going for a ride. I have gone on 80 mile rides at 45 degrees with my heated glove liners and jacket liner. With non-heated lined pants and good boots. Baclava helps too. It does take a few minutes more getting everything on or off.

 

I'm a close neighbor as I live in Lexington. Does get cold but with right winter gear you can ride 12 months out of the year (I just don't ride when temp gets below 35 and risk of freeze on roads).
I have a windshield on the bike, heated gloves and a good winter riding jacket. I do have a heated vest but only bring that our for riding below 40 degrees.
Suggest you give it a try as winter riding can be great.

 

I'm a close neighbor as I live in Lexington. Does get cold but with right winter gear you can ride 12 months out of the year (I just don't ride when temp gets below 35 and risk of freeze on roads).
I have a windshield on the bike, heated gloves and a good winter riding jacket. I do have a heated vest but only bring that our for riding below 40 degrees.
Suggest you give it a try as winter riding can be great.

Thanks- I never even considered riding in the winter, I have ridden in 45 degree mornings already and it’s cold but mainly on hands without heated gloves and legs since I just had riding jeans on.

 

After the first salting of the roads, I don't ride until a good rain cleans the salt off, too much pitting on aluminum.

 

I live in Kansas. I generally ride all year round except for snow/ice days. I have a battery tender but I rarely use it on my 1100. I shortened the wiring and connected it directly to the battery. I also have a USB outlet/voltmeter that I keep connected to it all the time. That way, if I ever do need to connect a charger/maintainer to it all I have to do is remove the seat and plug it in. It has a 10 amp fuse in it. It won't hurt to keep it on a maintainer and they are cheap and you will be assured that the battery won't be ruined by going completely flat and you'll have any easy startup.

But generally speaking of storage for the winter, you should start the engine every 2-3 weeks and let it warm up to remove any condensation in the crankcase. You should also move the bike a bit so it doesn't develop flat spots on the tires. I would definitely recommend Stabil as gas starts to go bad about 2 months. It's cheap and you won't have to worry about varnish clogging up the fuel injectors. Also, keeping your fuel tank near full will prevent rusting inside.

A cover will keep it clean and they're only about $35. Don't put Armor All on the seat as it won't grip your butt anymore.

There are probably several more things you could do but honestly, I don't think most people do all that. For more information, google how to store a classic car.

 

I live in WI so storing a road bike is a must for nearly half the year.

Fill the gas tank to the very top level (a non-full tank promotes rust and condensation inside), add your quality fuel preservative of choice (I use Seafoam or Chevron Techron, whatever is cheaper at the time) and run the bike after giving it time to mix in well. I usually add it at twice the level marked on the bottle.

I store my bikes on the Harbor Freight motorcycle dolly which lets me move them around sideways as needed. Great price and strong enough for any bike.

Check pressures on all tires, usually run max pressure on sidewall for storage.

Charge battery with a battery tender and plug it in once a month to make sure it stays charged.

Then toss a cover over each bike and let it be, cheap bike covers are all over the internet.

Start it in Spring, change the oil and filters, adjust tire pressure to the riding pressures you like and head out for your ride.

This is all I've done with bikes, mowers, and boats for decades and no issues.