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Discussion Starter #3
And then, valves... if anybody tells you that it is easy and quick process, I told you, it is very time and nerve consumption, with no place to work. Most fun is with electrics under gas tank. Bucket of cables, relays and connectors is very hefty, pastic trays are hard to move... And you have to disconnect gas cables and clutch cable...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
And when you came to valve cover, one more thing, when unbolt cover itself and some kind of valve on top, you must drain coolant and take away upper rubber coolant hose, because cover will go off head only to the left side, on the right side are timing sprocket on the way...
 

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i've never put enough miles on a bike to change the spark plugs, this will be the first. those look like ones i've changed on a car with at least 50,000 miles, not just the 12,000 you've put on...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Don't know on Yamaha they won't go much over 10000kms, and they not look very well at that mileage, only on Bimmer bokser machines they came out white and clean like new... So for now I would call it good, and machine didn't use a drop of oil between changes (messy air filter indicates somewhat oily motor, but draining hose was dry as well after 20000kms). It looks it's nature of beast:grin2:, also according to someone posted even messier air filter at half less mileage:surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And now, back to valves.
Everybody, including dealer, told me it's not necessary to check valves, but me, ok, let's play, and boy it was so worth all the hassle! Why? It was very shocking experience, when discovered valves out of specs, intake especially:surprise:. Numbers?
Intake side from chain to other side: 0,1mm , 0,1mm , 0,1mm , 0,08 or less mm and mfg specs 0,16 +/- 0,03mm!


Exhaust side, same order: all four 0,25mm mfg specs 0,27 +/-0,03mm


So, according to this it seems urgent to perform valves check at least at second service if not at first 12000kms! It's not likely that all will be in same boat, but I would not risk to ruin motor...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Checking valves itself is not so difficult job, here Honda did excellent job, It's all done in two steps (ok, valve cover is off at that point). First open crank cover and then turn the crank clockwise! till you see mark "T" on disc (with metric socket 14), aligned with notch in right crank cover
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So, you are there, good, now it's time to check exhaust valves. You need feller gauges here, in metric part of the world they're available in 0,05mm steps- it's kinda hard determine real gap here...
When measure, write down results...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Out of specs?
Ok, on left side on head you see two big silver nuts with hex 6mm holes (sorry, no pics here:eek:). Undo those two nuts and then bolt M6 bolt into rocker arm shafts and pull them out. Put some towel or some textile into head (to prevent shims to drop into motor!), move rockers away (they don't move much!) and pick shims with tweezers or magnet! Measure shims, write results down and calculate new thickness of shims. Order missing shims and wait till they will arrive- like me right now. They came in 0,025mm increments from 1,200 to 2,900mms. And they have funny markings
180 = 1,8mm, 182= 1,825mm, 185= 1,85mm, 188= 1,875mm.

Those numbers are engraved into them and could not been seen well in used motor (mine were barely seen).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got parts this past week, but since was very cold here these days (zero or below - in Celsius scale) parts still waits to be installed...
Also bought original cooling liquid, after stupidly drained it to canister contaminated with old oil:(
 

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