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I picked up the ROK Speed FX 2″ Black Pivoting Handlebar Risers to make the handlebars more comfortable to me, higher and back a bit. I had already rotated the bars towards me a bit. That helped but was not enough.
The ROK risers have a 2 inch rise and also can rotate towards you, or away too, I guess.

Installation looked pretty easy till you got into it a ways.
My plan was to remove the speedo, remove the bars, add the risers, replace the bars, replace the speedo.

When I removed the speedometer I noticed my first problem. The speedo is attached by two hex head bolts and a snap-on ring. The bolts screw into the upper half of the existing handlebars clamps. OK, no problem I thought. I will use the existing upper clamps on the new ROK riser lower clamps, and use the ROK upper clamps on the existing lower clamps. That will get the speedo attachment where I should be. It almost worked. The bolt and threads matched but the center to center of the two bolts on each side of the clamps is off by about 1/16 of an inch. So I had to use the proper upper clamps in their original spots.
That’s OK, I thought, I will figure that out later, and I did 😊.

The speedo wiring is a very simple connector to unsnap, no tools or real force needed.

I had to move the front brake hose a little to the center. My Rebel is a non-abs model so the hose goes directly to the front brake assembly with a bolted-on connector on the back of the left lower triple clamp. I unbolted it to give me more free play while adjusting the bars. I reattached the connector once I go the brake and throttle cables where I wanted them.

You have to trick the ROK clamps to get them tight. There is not enough room to properly screw down the clamps. The installation instructions hinted at the trick. Rotate the risers so that you can get to the back two blots and get them almost tight enough. Then rotate the riser to the correct angle for you and you should be able to get to the front two bolts and complete the tightening. It worked or me. I did have to do the process twice, the right riser rotated a tiny bit forward and that made the bars uneven to the forks.

Once the bars were where I wanted them I needed to rotate the fronts brake lever and clutch lever to fit my new hand position, I needed to rotate the switch housings too, when pulled in the levers were hitting the housings in their new positions. I checked the throttle cables and action by rotating the bars all the way left and right with the motor running. The RPMs did not change.

To get the speedo reattached I used two 2.5 x 3/8 x 1/16 inch steel brackets, with holes 2 inches apart. I found the brackets as part of some large “U” bolts assemblies at Home Depot. Tried it out, it worked. Afterwards I painted them black and it looks… ok. I am not really happy with my solution.

What I should have done, and probably will do, is have the upper clamps from both the original clamp and ROK riser drilled out to make the holes a little bigger, longer actually. Then I will be able to use the original upper clamps, with the speedo attachments, on the ROK risers. And use the ROK clamps on the original lower clamps. I just need someone with a drill press to elongate to holes properly.

I am happy with the ROK risers. They look nice. They get the bars to a more natural position for me. The cost was $106 total with shipping. They arrived within a week.

Link to ROK Risers

ROK Riser 1.jpg
ROK Riser 2.jpg
ROK Riser 3.jpg
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