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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
I’m wondering if anyone has purchased/installed DynoJet’s Power Commander 6 on their Rebel 1100?

I was watching a LifeofBurch video where he shared his initial impressions but hoping to get others’ thoughts. I don’t care about any added power or torque, but I would be willing to pay for it if it helps with smoother throttle and shifting at low speeds.

Thanks for any input!
 

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Hey all,
I’m wondering if anyone has purchased/installed DynoJet’s Power Commander 6 on their Rebel 1100?

I was watching a LifeofBurch video where he shared his initial impressions but hoping to get others’ thoughts. I don’t care about any added power or torque, but I would be willing to pay for it if it helps with smoother throttle and shifting at low speeds.

Thanks for any input!
LifeofBurch said there will be a follow up video after he can dyno tune the Power Commander 6.
 

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Don't know how many miles you have on your 1100 now but I am around 9200 miles. Since you don't care about added power, how much time have you spent defining your user modes. You might find your throttle is smoother with power at 2 and engine breaking at 1. I think it helped me. Also adjusting the clutch cable where engagement fits your left hand better might be worth exploring changes there on the manual 1100 version. I also took it a couple of time to a big parking lot and practiced doing slow figure 8's and straight line go slow as I could to stay on line. The 1100 is not my first bike with a touchy throttle by wire but it is different with it's own quirks.

As far as power commander goes, they make good products, but they don't offer me anything I need for the money spent. Really like my 1100 DCT and 98% of my riding it in manual mode.
 

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2021 Honda CMX1100 DCT
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Have used tuners on almost all my rides since 2000 but really don't see much need in this case .. That might possibly change in the future so will just say have no plans for it anytime soon .. In Sport Mode which use a lot, I have had no problem but have been using Throttle by Wire on most of them since 2008 and they are all a bit quirky but never had any problem adapting to them ..
 

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Have used tuners on almost all my rides since 2000 but really don't see much need in this case .. That might possibly change in the future so will just say have no plans for it anytime soon .. In Sport Mode which use a lot, I have had no problem but have been using Throttle by Wire on most of them since 2008 and they are all a bit quirky but never had any problem adapting to them ..
Don't sneeze at a stop light:oops:
 
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Piggyback fuel controllers can only add or subtract fuel and change ignition timing but they can't override the ECU restrictions. The quirky throttling at low speed (due to the fuel being completely shut off) wont go away even on bikes without TBW.
 

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Piggyback fuel controllers can only add or subtract fuel and change ignition timing but they can't override the ECU restrictions. The quirky throttling at low speed (due to the fuel being completely shut off) wont go away even on bikes without TBW.
Well LifeofBurch did feel there was a change so maybe it is the filter however that seems unlikely. I think the throttle is quirky at all speeds. Have you ever just turned off the cruise control at 70 mph. On the manual you are tossed forward by the engine braking. There should be a smoother transition.

The Power Commander 6 also controls the crank position sensor's input into the ECM.
 

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Most big EFI bikes have strong EB because the engine cuts out when the throttle is released and then they abruptly take off when the engine fires back up again after opening the throttle. Carbureted bikes don't usually do that because the engine stays running when you EB. Some later model, carbureted bikes had a mechanical valve that cut fuel but they were easily "fixed".
 

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Most big EFI bikes have strong EB because the engine cuts out when the throttle is released and then they abruptly take off when the engine fires back up again after opening the throttle. Carbureted bikes don't usually do that because the engine stays running when you EB. Some later model, carbureted bikes had a mechanical valve that cut fuel but they were easily "fixed".
Understandable then why it happens. I would think it could be fixed or reduced with better control over the butterfly by not closing the throttle so suddenly. Also cutting the engine does not need to happen as soon as the throttle is rolled back. Rolling off the throttle should produce a different response than cutting the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I should have clarified in my initial post but I have the DCT model and love it, except for how jerky it is at low speeds. Deceleration from 3rd gear down to 1st always jerks me forward too.

Bozo, your post makes a lot of sense. I have noticed if I keep the throttle slightly open, I don’t get the heavy EB but that’s nearly impossible and the very low speeds.

It’s certainly not a deal breaker for me. I love the convenience of the DCT and the 1100 overall but I’d be willing to put down the 400$ if it actually resolves it.
 

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I felt the same way about it at slow speeds, even with engine braking at the lowest setting. I watched that video also and decided to take the plunge. I have rode it about 25 miles since but I noticed the difference right away. It really does smooth it out at slow speeds a lot. I'm not a YouTuber myself and don't work for DynoJet or have any vested interest, but it really worked for me. I did not do the air filter change.
 
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Now I am wondering what happens to engine emissions if you just bolt it on without a tune. I live in a restrictive country that does emissions testing every two years.
That I'm not sure. I didn't use a tune myself and wouldn't know what I'm doing in that regard anyway and I don't think there are existing tunes to get. I also live in a state in the US that doesn't have emissions testing.
 
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Even if the servo closes and opens the throttle valve very slowly, there will always be a point where the engine rpm will abruptly slow down or speed up as it completely shuts off and starts back up. With cars, the weight of the vehicle suppresses that abrupt rpm change so the fuel-cut goes unnoticed.
 

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Even if the servo closes and opens the throttle valve very slowly, there will always be a point where the engine rpm will abruptly slow down or speed up as it completely shuts off and starts back up. With cars, the weight of the vehicle suppresses that abrupt rpm change so the fuel-cut goes unnoticed.
The abrupt engine cut off is less when riding double however still strong enough to cause passenger complaint.
 

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So I did some googling and found this over in the Afrika Twin forums and found this thread,


Is it possible the engine braking settings in the manual are backwards? I have to believe that the Afrika Twin ECM code is very similar in the Rebel 1100.

From the Afrika Twin manual,

EB Value (Engine Brake Level)
EB value has three setting levels.
Available setting range 1-3
-> Level 1 has the strongest engine braking effect
-> Level 3 has the weakest engine braking effect.

This is backward from the Rebel manual.
 

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So I did some googling and found this over in the Afrika Twin forums and found this thread,


Is it possible the engine braking settings in the manual are backwards? I have to believe that the Afrika Twin ECM code is very similar in the Rebel 1100.

From the Afrika Twin manual,

EB Value (Engine Brake Level)
EB value has three setting levels.
Available setting range 1-3
-> Level 1 has the strongest engine braking effect
-> Level 3 has the weakest engine braking effect.

This is backward from the Rebel manual.
Not sure, but I have tried all 3 and honestly don't notice much difference between them anyway.
 

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I don't know if this will help anybody resolve their problems with twitchy throttle response, but when I picked up my DCT from the dealer in Feb. '21, I almost couldn't get it home because the throttle was so twitchy. Before riding it again I read the manual and put it in rain mode, it helped with the throttle issue, it was good for break in mileage, and hey - it was winter in Oregon, which means rain. I don't quite remember when but at some point I switched from rain to standard, and haven't had much motivation to experiment with sport or user. I've made no engine mods to the bike, and feel that the throttle response is smooth, and it has all the power I need to accelerate out of a turn or on to a freeway. I always ride in manual mode, but don't think that has anything to do with throttle response.
 
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