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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen a bunch of posts about the dreaded moment of removing the 4 bolts on the sides of the rear fender, but nothing about reinstalling.
The right side bolts went in easy, the left front took some muscle, and I can't get the back left one in. It slides in easy and the first couple threads are fine, then it comes to a screeching halt. The holes on the strut are lined up. Have I completely messed up the threads on the strut? HELP!
 

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When I installed my sissy bar, I had to deal with those damnable bolts. I had one that wasn't...quite aligned, and ended up cross threading it (When the bolts gets hard to turn, turn harder, right? XD) Anyways, I had to retap that bolt hole. And it acted the exact same same way you're describing. Get your self a cheapy mastercraft or harbor freight tap and die set, specifically with a 10mmx1.25 tap, and it'll fix it right up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ah that’s what I was afraid of. Never tapped a hole before! @Enraged Goat, did you use a 10mm because it’s bigger than the M8 hole? I think I’ll start with an M8 tap and size up if needed.
Did you keep the strut on the bike while you were working? Or did you take it off to tap?
Thanks!
 

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mine did this when i was trying to put a rear rack on, i took everything apart and made sure the threads were still good (they were). I lined it all back up and put it back together and it worked great. clean all your bolts and make sure the holes are lined up! because the inside fender frame can easily bend
 

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Ah that’s what I was afraid of. Never tapped a hole before! @Enraged Goat, did you use a 10mm because it’s bigger than the M8 hole? I think I’ll start with an M8 tap and size up if needed.
Did you keep the strut on the bike while you were working? Or did you take it off to tap?
Thanks!
Ummm........No. I used the right size/thread tap. Why 10mmx1.25 i stuck in my head, I'm not entirely sure. If they are 8mmx1.25, use that size tap, cause I had thought they were 10mm.
As for how to use a tap, I suggest google/youtube. There's lot's of info out there, and they aren't hard to use at all. Just take your time, and whatever you do - do NOT break the tap in the hole! That's every tool&die guy's nightmare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the input! I'll try to tap it and update you when finished.
 

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Have similar affair with instrument cluster bolts and I was first who unbolt those bolts (and both have to be trashed after?)
 

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When I installed my sissy bar, I had to deal with those damnable bolts. I had one that wasn't...quite aligned, and ended up cross threading it (When the bolts gets hard to turn, turn harder, right? XD) Anyways, I had to retap that bolt hole. And it acted the exact same same way you're describing. Get your self a cheapy mastercraft or harbor freight tap and die set, specifically with a 10mmx1.25 tap, and it'll fix it right up.
I've seen a bunch of posts about the dreaded moment of removing the 4 bolts on the sides of the rear fender, but nothing about reinstalling.
The right side bolts went in easy, the left front took some muscle, and I can't get the back left one in. It slides in easy and the first couple threads are fine, then it comes to a screeching halt. The holes on the strut are lined up. Have I completely messed up the threads on the strut? HELP!
Yes, same happened on both sides when I installed the sissy bar. How the hell can we getter back in? Tap and die unfortunately, and purchase slightly longer M8 bolts. Real ******* of things to get in. I'm never taking them off again. Cheers.
 

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I had issues with those bolt holes when I mounted saddlebags on the fenders. I believe it is because the fender itself has threaded inserts and when you remove the bolt the fender shifts a bit. When the fender shifts, the threaded hole is no longer lined up with the clearance hole in the fender bracket. I ran a tap into each thread, just to clean up the threads from any debris or paint. The key is to thread the bolt in carefully and do no force it. If it doesn't go in, back it off and try to angle the bolt just a bit and try again. Eventually you should find the correct angle the bolt should be at. A bit of anti-seize on the thread of the bolt also helps to prevent it from gawling up.
 

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I had problems to and I don't think honda tapped a thread all the way thru properly.
 
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