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Discussion Starter #1
I've purchased a luggage rack that bolts onto the rear fender. You have to remove the two stock hex/allen bolts and use the ones provided with the luggage rack.


The hex bolts are 6mm (I think...whatever it is, the wrench fits snug) But I can't break them loose. I REALLY pulled on the wrench, but the hex bolts won't break loose. I'm afraid I will strip the socket. I'm pulling so hard I'm bending the wrench.



So I figured I'll get my socket set out, and use that from underneath, while using the allen wrench on top. It turns out the nut underneath the fender (both) has been welded/soldered to the fender. Just enough where I can't get my socket over the top of the bolt. But considering it's been welded/soldered...I don't think I want to break it loose in the first place. That leaves me with just the hex bolt on top of the fender....but I can't break it loose. I suppose I could put on gloves and/or use a small breaker bar to give the wrench some more leverage. But I just don't think it should be this hard. I feel like I'm doing something wrong. I thought about some liquid wrench, but there's no way to really get it down to the nut area.



Any ideas?
 

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If you have a small soldering iron clean the tip and insert the iron in the head of the bolt. There may be thread locker on the threads and you should be able to hear it sizzle when melting. I used a 3' breaker bar to get the rear fender bolts loose.

Kenny
 

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The 4 M8 fender bolts, don't recall seeing any threadlocker on them.

Use a good quality 8mm hex bit with a 1/2" ratchet, it's on there tight, but once you break them open it's easy on/off afterwards.

Tip: Reinstall, tourque them tight or use some blue threadlocker/loctite otherwise they'll backout and you'll lose them.


If you have a small soldering iron clean the tip and insert the iron in the head of the bolt. There may be thread locker on the threads and you should be able to hear it sizzle when melting. I used a 3' breaker bar to get the rear fender bolts loose.

Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The 4 M8 fender bolts, don't recall seeing any threadlocker on them.

Not the 4 bolts on the sides of the fender. (two on each side) I'm talking about the two on top.
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I also realize I should push down directly on top of the curve of the wrench to give it more downward force. That will help it keep from stripping.
 

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You almost need an Allen Socket with a ratchet or a breaker bar. Heating them first may make it easier to break them loose.

Kenny G
 

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+1 for the allen head socket. I have a nice set of T-Handle allen wrenches and they wouldn't budge any of them. It would have broken the tool before loosening the bolt.
Just not enough leverage. I assume you probably already have a 3/8 socket wrench, just pick up a single hex head socket. I think mine was about $3 at home depot made by Husky. It will break loose with just the extra length of the socket wrench. No breaker bar needed. Being so tight, I was careful to insert as far as possible and keep the tool perpendicular to prevent marring the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I topped by Home Depot this morning and they had a 6mm hex socket for a 3/8 ratchet for $1.97. I bought it, and gave it a go. I REALLY had to tug on that wrench. It worked, but I was close to getting a breaker bar. Had the bolts off and the luggage rack installed in 2 minutes. This spring will be saddle bag time.
 
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