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I would not expect any company to offer a product or service that they lost money on. Why, because it takes money to stay in business. A dealer that has been around 10 years or more selling just a couple of brands to me must be a good dealer. I bought a CTX700 from them in 2014 and sold it and bought my 1100 DCT in June of 2021. I never worry about them making money and yes, even good dealers allow you to make offers that they often take.

I have over 50 years working on motorcycles. Old ones mostly. The 1100 DCT is modern with many items costing many hundreds of dollars plus a transmission I would not dive into if it needed repaired. When I got offered 5 years extended warranty I took it for 900.00. (180.00 per year or about 1.5 hours shop time not counting parts). That 900.00 works out to only 15.00 per month (1 tank of gas in CA). Very affordable piece of mind. Yeah, I will still do the services required because I can still wrench. I know wear items are on me like oil changes, tires, brakes, chains.

I see late model broken bikes on Craig's List often where the owner can't fix it so sells it really cheap to get ride of it. Often loosing more money than a service contract would have cost him. A clean well maintained and operating bike always gets more money when sold.

Just some 1100 DCT items I just looked up online. Some I have had break on bikes over the years. Cam shaft tensioner problematic on many new and old bikes $280+labor, fuel pump with filter $350.00+labor, left hand switch gear $265.00, starter $375.00+labor, Throttle body assembly $1150.00+labor (carbs on old bikes), abs modulator $1265.00+labor, alternator $360.00, DCT clutch assembly (2x) $780.00+labor, DCT solenoid 240.00+labor. The all inclusive multi-gage giving all that useful information $706.64.

And I realize some of you don't like or want extended warranty due to price. I just said how I felt about it.
 

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Peeps with Honda cars never check the valve lash and the engines just keep running. I will do this once on schedule and then listen for any tick sounds before I do it again.
Many Honda car motors have timing belts. When that breaks, the engine is toast because they are zero clearance motors. I had a 72 Capri break a timing belt. $16.00 and 1 hour I drove it home. You never hear a belt that is about to break.

Most motorcycle valve clearances don't get wider and start ticking. As a valve seats in the head it reduces the clearance in the valve train. Exhaust valve more than intake due to the heat. The old days of nut/screw has pretty much been replaced with bucket/shim. Harder to do yourself but is a maintenance item not a warranty item if clearance is the only issue.
 

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Many Honda car motors have timing belts. When that breaks, the engine is toast because they are zero clearance motors. I had a 72 Capri break a timing belt. $16.00 and 1 hour I drove it home. You never hear a belt that is about to break.

Most motorcycle valve clearances don't get wider and start ticking. As a valve seats in the head it reduces the clearance in the valve train. Exhaust valve more than intake due to the heat. The old days of nut/screw has pretty much been replaced with bucket/shim. Harder to do yourself but is a maintenance item not a warranty item if clearance is the only issue.
Check, while there is wear on the valve seat there is also wear on the valve stem tip, rockers (for the valves with rockers) and camshaft so ...

Chains running in oil are way less likely to break than a belt and I believe all of the newer Honda car engines are now chains, not completely sure?
 

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I would not expect any company to offer a product or service that they lost money on. Why, because it takes money to stay in business. A dealer that has been around 10 years or more selling just a couple of brands to me must be a good dealer. I bought a CTX700 from them in 2014 and sold it and bought my 1100 DCT in June of 2021. I never worry about them making money and yes, even good dealers allow you to make offers that they often take.

I have over 50 years working on motorcycles. Old ones mostly. The 1100 DCT is modern with many items costing many hundreds of dollars plus a transmission I would not dive into if it needed repaired. When I got offered 5 years extended warranty I took it for 900.00. (180.00 per year or about 1.5 hours shop time not counting parts). That 900.00 works out to only 15.00 per month (1 tank of gas in CA). Very affordable piece of mind. Yeah, I will still do the services required because I can still wrench. I know wear items are on me like oil changes, tires, brakes, chains.

I see late model broken bikes on Craig's List often where the owner can't fix it so sells it really cheap to get ride of it. Often loosing more money than a service contract would have cost him. A clean well maintained and operating bike always gets more money when sold.

Just some 1100 DCT items I just looked up online. Some I have had break on bikes over the years. Cam shaft tensioner problematic on many new and old bikes $280+labor, fuel pump with filter $350.00+labor, left hand switch gear $265.00, starter $375.00+labor, Throttle body assembly $1150.00+labor (carbs on old bikes), abs modulator $1265.00+labor, alternator $360.00, DCT clutch assembly (2x) $780.00+labor, DCT solenoid 240.00+labor. The all inclusive multi-gage giving all that useful information $706.64.

And I realize some of you don't like or want extended warranty due to price. I just said how I felt about it.
(y) on your post

and the nice discount in the chart on the previous page did it for me...I went with the 4 year plan for $495...MSRP $770

.
 

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(y) on your post

and the nice discount in the chart on the previous page did it for me...I went with the 4 year plan for $495...MSRP $770

.
Well, no doubt rws, you got a better deal per year and month of 10.31 per month. Nice to save money too. Let's hope we don't need to use it. I will be 78 -1/2 years old when it expires in June of 2027. Should have 30-40k on it by then.
 

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Well, no doubt rws, you got a better deal per year and month of 10.31 per month. Nice to save money too. Let's hope we don't need to use it. I will be 78 -1/2 years old when it expires in June of 2079. Should have 30-40k on it by then.
You're gonna be a very old man in 2079 ...hehe
 
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Come on using scare tactics?
Just bought a new Jeep in May.
Was offered an extended warranty for $2500.
I declined.
Surprised the guy offering.
For which he then did the talk about how much it takes to do a repair of, tranny, and electronics pieces, ect.
IF I bought a new car/truck/bike and I expected it to break I would not buy it AND the place selling it would not be in business very long - is what I said for the reason why I did not need the warranty.
So after I declined he "was willing" to knock off $500 from the cost.
How can they make the cost cheaper? Because 99.99% of the time no one needs to use the extended warranty.
Cars and trucks and bikes have gotten more reliable over the years.
AT most if there is a tragic problem from assembly or part it will happen in the first year.
Then if you do the maintenance it should last a long time.
If you think you need "protection" from a expensive breakdown start saving the same cost of the warranty cost each month.
 

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Come on using scare tactics?
Just bought a new Jeep in May.

Cars and trucks and bikes have gotten more reliable over the years.
Scare tactics? Not the reason I got the extended warranty. I have plenty of insurance on my cars and house and life. Extended warranty insurance is by far the cheapest I pay and worth it to me. I could care less what anyone else does as I said.

You bought a new Jeep. I bought a new 2022 Maverick Hybrid truck. In less than a year, it has been to dealer for 1 recall. Has 2 open recalls pending as Ford waits for parts. Nothing major that prevents me from driving it and I love my $26k 2022 truck and the 42mpg I am getting. My 2002 truck I owned for 12 years had none during that time. There were 4 recalls on my 2016 Chevy Volt and 1 so far on my 2016 Prius. Most new cars are full of electronics and computers. Software bugs and electronic problems are plentiful with many makes.

My Rebel 1100 DCT developed a major oil leak around 4k miles as well as others reporting here. My 1988 Hawk GT has never leaked a drop or failed to start. I think electronics make vehicles less reliable and that quality has also gone downhill.

Again, just my thoughts.
 

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Well, I lost the extended warranty gamble. My rear brake froze up in contact with the disc, and scored it bad enough that I had to replace the disc and brake assembly - just over $1,000. This was at 5,500 miles. It took me over a year to get there because Honda couldn't deliver the accessories I ordered with the base bike. On the other hand I've probably saved over 1K by turning down extended warrantys.
 

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Well, I lost the extended warranty gamble. My rear brake froze up in contact with the disc, and scored it bad enough that I had to replace the disc and brake assembly - just over $1,000. This was at 5,500 miles. It took me over a year to get there because Honda couldn't deliver the accessories I ordered with the base bike. On the other hand I've probably saved over 1K by turning down extended warrantys.

Curious Did you find out why the brake froze up? Did something come loose or wear down to the metal (like the brake pads)?
 

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Curious Did you find out why the brake froze up? Did something come loose or wear down to the metal (like the brake pads)?
My understanding is that something on the brake assembly rusted and held one of the brake pads slightly against the disc, not enough to notice but enough to cause long term damage. I usually wear a modular helmet, but occasionally wear a half helmet on a run to the store as I don't mind leaving it on the bike. On one of those trips I used the rear brake and could hear a scraping sound - which I couldn't with my regular helmet. I already had an appointment coming up for my somewhat delayed 4,000 mile service, mentioned it to the service manager.

It's either a defective part, or something done wrong with dealer prep. The dealer is out of business, and Honda says 'it's past 12 months, so not our problem'.
 

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My understanding is that something on the brake assembly rusted and held one of the brake pads slightly against the disc, not enough to notice but enough to cause long term damage. I usually wear a modular helmet, but occasionally wear a half helmet on a run to the store as I don't mind leaving it on the bike. On one of those trips I used the rear brake and could hear a scraping sound - which I couldn't with my regular helmet. I already had an appointment coming up for my somewhat delayed 4,000 mile service, mentioned it to the service manager.

It's either a defective part, or something done wrong with dealer prep. The dealer is out of business, and Honda says 'it's past 12 months, so not our problem'.
It sounds like a quick inspection every 500 miles or so until you know if you are not effected with that condition. It appears something went wrong during manufacturing or something from the road got on the brake. Or could it have been a cleaner?

On another thought always report these problems to the,


The more reports made will trigger an investigation which could result in a recall.
 

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Storing your Rebel in the garage doesn't insure that it will be moisture free. If you put down a barrier (rubber mat or Styrofoam) between the concrete and your motorcycle this could help to keep the moisture off and out of your bike. Every garage is different. In some situations not allowing the moisture from the concrete to raise into or onto your motorcycle could prevent a brake from rusting or worst locking up. I even heard of some motorcycles stored where the tires are placed on 4" styrofoam blocks for the winter which yielded stellar results.
 

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Storing your Rebel in the garage doesn't insure that it will be moisture free. If you put down a barrier (rubber mat or Styrofoam) between the concrete and your motorcycle this could help to keep the moisture off and out of your bike. Every garage is different. In some situations not allowing the moisture from the concrete to raise into or onto your motorcycle could prevent a brake from rusting or worst locking up. I even heard of some motorcycles stored where the tires are placed on 4" styrofoam blocks for the winter which yielded stellar results.
Still it should not rust under those conditions in my opinion well unless the garage is terrible wet. I ride year long store my bike outside under a carport under a high quality motorcycle cover (one that breathes). Never had rust problems with my Sportster. If a spot shows a little rust I would clean it with,

 

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It's a bare aluminum bore and plated steel piston with nothing but a film of brake fluid coating them. That's how they're assembled from the factory so corrosion should be expected. Whenever I get a used bike with draggy brakes, I work the pistons out as much as possible without removing, clean up any corrosion and coat them with silicon grease before pushing them back in. After that, a penetrating silicone spray on the exposed part of the piston every once in while for good measure.
 

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My understanding is that something on the brake assembly rusted and held one of the brake pads slightly against the disc, not enough to notice but enough to cause long term damage. I usually wear a modular helmet, but occasionally wear a half helmet on a run to the store as I don't mind leaving it on the bike. On one of those trips I used the rear brake and could hear a scraping sound - which I couldn't with my regular helmet. I already had an appointment coming up for my somewhat delayed 4,000 mile service, mentioned it to the service manager.

It's either a defective part, or something done wrong with dealer prep. The dealer is out of business, and Honda says 'it's past 12 months, so not our problem'.
hondapartsnation shows rotor 246.56, 1 piston 31.87, seal set 11.14, brake pads 29.51, 4 rotor bolts 9.96 = 372.43 plus some brake fluid.

Scraping sounds in brakes usually means a pad is worn down and the metal backing is rubbing, and you would typically only hear that when the brake was applied. It would take many miles to wear down a pad to the metal. Aslo rotors have a thickness spec for new and when it must be replaced. If it was gouged and brake pads and parking brake pads had lining, then the gouging came from something else caught in the brakes

Dragging piston pushing against the brake pads would wear the rotor but would take many miles as that is a flat surface rubbing against a flat surface. The 1100 has a parking brake which also has 2 flat pads that squeeze the rotor. If parking brake cable adjusted wrong the parking brake pads would wear as the rotor rotated. I think it would not take long to heat up the rotor and turn it blueish much like exhaust pipes turn blue. Also it would most likely smell. I think the caliper would not have to be replaced as it is aluminum and only contact is the piston sliding in and out pushing against 1 pad. The other pad is pulled into the rotar because the floating caliper moves when brake is applied.

If they gave you an itemized repair order you could check it against the list above. Online parts are just a little under retail.

I know this is water under the bridge as you have already had it fixed. As an 1100 owner I hope it is not a design defect and will show up on other 1100's.
 
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redsheild - what??? moisture will get to the bike from around the mat you place on the floor.
Unless you seal that concrete up tight a mat or Styrofoam will not do anything!
JDOCK, It sounds like you’re an expert when it comes to the storage of motor vehicles. Have you ever tried this technique? Most likely not after seeing your response.
It turns out that by using 4" block of Styrofoam this works. In the past before, portable dehumidifiers got popular to use the pros used this technique. I was trying to give a low-cost solution so his Rebel brake issue didn't happen again. I got this tip years ago from the head person that ran the Porsche team for Rem Race Engineering & Motorsports from Mullenbach, Germany. They happen too have a fleet of racing cars. All cars aren’t raced all the time. So, there are times when dozens of their cars are in storage. They use different warehouses but consistently use 4" blocks of Styrofoam under each the tire.
 
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