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Discussion Starter #1
This question is for all folks that have replaced their bars or added bar end mirrors. I replaced my bars and I like the new ones much more than the stock bars. What I didn’t do was move the bar end weights from the original set to the new set. Basically because I couldn’t figure out how to remove them. My question is did you move them for a bar swap or if you went with the end mirrors, how did you get them out? After 2 decent rides I can tell they are missing and want to go back in and add them. Any comments would be helpful, even if you tried and failed it’s good to know. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You sir are correct. I don’t know why I didn’t think about that. After reading your reply I went to an OEM parts checker and they are not an available part. Guess I’ll have to find some that will work. Thanks
 

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You could try some from a 250 rebel they are removable and might work
 

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You sir are correct. I don’t know why I didn’t think about that. After reading your reply I went to an OEM parts checker and they are not an available part. Guess I’ll have to find some that will work. Thanks
If you want to reduce handlebar vibration find a piece of rubber hose that will just fit inside the handlebars, remove the throttle and slide the hose in as far as you can and off any surplus. You can use clear hose if that is all that is available. Hose helped reduce vibration in the old British bikes.

If you insist on adding weight lead shot will work, but it does become powdered over a period of time. I am not sure if the powder would escape and you would be breathing it or not....

Kenny G
 

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Robble,

Silicone sealant will help. Anything to increase weight and cut down harmonics will reduce perceived vibration.

I actually put BBs from an air rifle inside the hose on a big AJS single. I used corks on the ends of the hose to keep the BBs from running all over the place while sliding the hose through the handle bars.

I recently added Kuryakyn ISO grips to my Rebel and eliminated any vibration felt in the handlebars. The ISO grips do increase the diameter quite a bit so I am thinking if you don't wear a Large size glove you may have trouble with the brake & clutch levers. I wear XX Large so it not a problem for me.

Kenny G
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All good conversation. I emailed the bar vendor and they recommended JP Cycle for aftermarket. Guess I’ll start with an internet search and see where it takes me. Thanks everyone!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I bought a set from Steigerperformance.com. They are 10oz each side. Install inside the bars so not visible once installed. I’ll give feedback in a week or so.
 

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I recently added Kuryakyn ISO grips to my Rebel and eliminated any vibration felt in the handlebars. The ISO grips do increase the diameter quite a bit so I am thinking if you don't wear a Large size glove you may have trouble with the brake & clutch levers. I wear XX Large so it not a problem for me.

Kenny G

Thanks for that. I have fitted grip puppies which have helped a bit. I am wondering if they are made of neoprene foam which is a little too dense, but on the other hand they have to deal with weight through the hands. Had to adjust the brake lever (clutch ok). That's good enough for me now. Might one day think about the hose/silicone. Some other vibes will be countered by a seat pad I am working on.
Robble
 

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Robble,

Take a look at the ISO grips the next time you are at a motorcycle shop, I thin you will be able to tell why they are so effective.

Kuryakyn does not yet make a grip for the Rebel, but the universal 1" works fine, although they are about 1/2" longer than the OEM grips which is not a problem.

Kenny G
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It’s hard to get excited about handlebar weights. They made a nice difference. Hated to spend money on this mod but it was important and now its done. I will recommend them to anyone thinking about adding them. They are worth the cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
On the left remove the grip and insert then tighten the philips screw, reinstall the grip.
The throttle gave me pause but it was a snap once I thought it out. Here’s an overview.
1 adjust the upper cable at the throttle for max slack.
2 remove the 2 philips screws above the throttle body ( the other end of the cables )
3 remove the nut for lower cable to throttle
4 remove the 2 philips screws that hold the throttle on the bars.
5 remove the lower cable from the throttle
6 the throttle should slide off now.
Install the weight and reverse the steps. I used locktight on the 2 screws that hold the throttle to the bars. I didn’t want to over torque the screws and warp the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My OCD made me drill holes. Here’s what I learned. Temp Install the new bars get them kind of where you want them. Dry fit the switch housings and see where the hole needs to be (make sure the switches are not rotated to forward or back) Measure the hole on the old bars and drill the new bars that far back. It isn’t the same distance on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have been asked about the bar end weights. After 2 months and close to 1000 miles I can say they out perform stock but there is still that small vibration near 20 mph for a moment. The Honda mechanic I took it to to ask rode it and said it is smoother than any stock 500 he has ridden
 
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