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Discussion Starter #1
For anyone who has this fender:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-REBEL-CMX-300-500-2017-TAIL-TIDY-SHORT-REAR-FENDER-LED-LIGHT-FAIRING-CUSTO/152693035427?hash=item238d36d1a3:g:Bx8AAOSwQvhZhVKM

A buddy helped me take off the stock rear fender and put on the supports for the Diablo short fender. The wiring is a bit more difficult, so that's the next hurdle. I'm just wondering, for anyone who has this fender installed, is the voltage regulator just exposed to the elements? Am I missing a piece? I added a picture to show what i'm talking about.



There's another plastic piece that came off with the rear fender that kind of blocks it, but it doesn't secure to anything with the Diablo support bars.

Any guidance is much appreciated.
 

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I put my top piece back on & secured it with black cable ties.
Not had a problem with the wet road spray getting in.
You can always glue some plastic to cover those two large openings at each side.
 

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Hey Dan,
I did mine with that exact Fender but i dont remember having an opening there. I think you took off more than needed. The wiring was easy, I think i have a diagram that helped me somewhere.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Dan,
I did mine with that exact Fender but i dont remember having an opening there. I think you took off more than needed. The wiring was easy, I think i have a diagram that helped me somewhere.
Good Luck
Hey man - 2 things, can you take a picture of under your fender so I can see what it looks like? Also - if you have that diagram it would be super helpful!
 

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Hey man - 2 things, can you take a picture of under your fender so I can see what it looks like? Also - if you have that diagram it would be super helpful!
^^^ Second that please. I'm going to bobber my rebel so any info related would be appreciated. Also do the rear wheels and swing-arm need to be taken off in order to remove the stock rear fender?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ryan500
You do not need to remove the wheels or swing arm, take the seat off and unplug the light connectors, the mud deflectors, I had to remove the heat sink thing too.
Although I fitted the H2C short Fender, the procedure is more or less the same.
So, piece 4 in that image connects to the stock rear fender and helps keep the voltage regulator from being exposed. That piece doesn't connect once the stock fender is removed. There's nothing to secure it to. I guess I'll have to do like the first guy said and zip tie it or something.

Wiring is still my nightmare...
 

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Guys does removing the stock rear fender also remove the mounting points for the peg stock or the muffler mount? Number 7 in the diagram.
 

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Guys does removing the stock rear fender also remove the mounting points for the peg stock or the muffler mount? Number 7 in the diagram.
When you remove the fender support arms you have to take off the muffler/peg brackets.
When you replace the fender arms with the new short ones, you should have the holes predrilled in the arms to refit the muffler/peg brackets.
You can take the pegs off whilst you disassemble if not using them anymore.
Quite easy job, just study the diagram and mounting bolts before you start.

When you remove the seat & have a looksy,it should make a little more sense.
 

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When you remove the fender support arms you have to take off the muffler/peg brackets.
When you replace the fender arms with the new short ones, you should have the holes predrilled in the arms to refit the muffler/peg brackets.
You can take the pegs off whilst you disassemble if not using them anymore.
Quite easy job, just study the diagram and mounting bolts before you start.

When you remove the seat & have a looksy,it should make a little more sense.
I am going to bobber the bike so no other fender is going in. Well this sucks because I have a new muffler coming home that will use the current foot peg.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can slot the top piece over the bottom one then zip tie. I used the small holes at the side to thread the ties through.
Mine is very secure
Thanks for this, Twiz. I used zip ties and it's pretty solid.

As a point of reference for anyone considering this product, the wiring can be a bit complicated to make sure it's not exposed to the elements.

Another question - since the lights are LCD, the signals flash much quicker. Anyone know a simple fix for this?
 

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Thanks for this, Twiz. I used zip ties and it's pretty solid.

As a point of reference for anyone considering this product, the wiring can be a bit complicated to make sure it's not exposed to the elements.

Another question - since the lights are LCD, the signals flash much quicker. Anyone know a simple fix for this?
LED flasher relay. Better than mucking around with soldering resistors.
Somewhere on the forum there’s a post or two with regards to buying the correct one.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Another question - since the lights are LCD, the signals flash much quicker. Anyone know a simple fix for this?
Edit: The relay is located underneath the tank, all the way up at the front, and down into the little triangle area (the frame is sorta shaped like that, you'll see), on the right hand side down there.
Change out the relay.
This one is confirmed to work:
https://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-h-electronic-led-flasher-relay-4-pin-honda
Nice. Thank you. Not sure I care enough to take the tank off... maybe eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Heymanitsdan

If you’ve gone through the trouble of removing the fender, lights, & re-wireing, removing one bolt from the tank & unplugging the tubes is a walk in the park.
Nice. Thank you. Not sure I care enough to take the tank off... maybe eventually.
Don't have to take it completely off even.
Just make sure it pretty empty, loosen it, and turn it 90 degrees and set it down again. Easy peasy. Take 2 min tops.
Thanks guys. Haven’t done it yet, but knowing how easy it is, I’ll definitely go for it.
 
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