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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Daytona tachometer kit for 2017-2019 Rebel 300/500. Cut one wire, crimp two connectors, the rest is plug and play. Purchased from Webike Japan:

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Open up the headlight to gain access to the accessory power connector:
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Remove the black plug cap:
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Connect the power harness included with the kit, reuse the black plug cap:
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Leaving the accessory power splitter inside the headlight, route the 2 connectors (with clear boots), back through the rear headlight opening:
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Mounted the gauge in a different location since I’ve ditched the stock handlebar mount.

Connect lightly to the RED and BLACK connectors on the gauge, turn on the ignition to test the power to the gauge:

Close up your headlight:
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Remove the seat to gain access to the fuel tank bolt, unbolt it with a 8mm hex bit:
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Lift the bottom of the tank, place a towel or junk t-shirt under the bottom half of the tank to prevent the tank from scratching the frame, lift the bottom and pull the tank toward the center of the bike to unhook it from the 2 nubs, rotate the tank 45deg counter-clockwise and rest it on the towel:
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To be continued on a second post due to 10 attachment limit per post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Unplug the ECU connector:
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Find the BLUE/YELLOW wire, first pin on the second row, this wire goes to ignition coil 1:
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Cut it at a convenient place, not much room to work with, you need to crimp connectors to each end:
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Strip the ends, crimp the provided connectors to be connected to the splitter adapter:
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Install the ignition coil/tach signal wire adapter/splitter and connect the wire with the resistor (covered in the black sleeve) to the WHITE wire at the tachometer:
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Tuck everything neatly whichever way you want, under the gas tank re-bar, put everything back together.
For a Rebel 500, program the tachometer setting to 1p-2r.

Startup:

Running:
 

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good job tackling the project. and great write up for those interested.
(y)
 

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Was wondering where the "how to" was.
GREAT JOB!
Not sure where I would mount it though.
Thanks, saved for later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
My other post was getting long and not focused on install steps from the start.

Kit is intended to mount on the upper left bolt of the stock handlebar mount, to locate the gauge at the 10 o'clock position at the speedo. Spacer and longer handlebar bolt is included with the kit.


Was wondering where the "how to" was.
GREAT JOB!
Not sure where I would mount it though.
Thanks, saved for later.
 

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What is the digital window in the tach showing?
I wondered that myself, becuase it looked diff in diff pix.. maybe one was voltage, at a guess another one might have been high RPM thus far.. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
LCD screen at the bottom of the gauge displays voltage or max rpm. I have it set to voltage.
Forgot to remove the plastic covering the screen hahahahhahaha!!!

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I wondered that myself, becuase it looked diff in diff pix.. maybe one was voltage, at a guess another one might have been high RPM thus far.. ?
 

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Thank you very much for your contribution. The only thing I'm thinking is it would be great if we can identify a tool to remove the pin from the ECU connector. To refine the process. It could reduce the amount of original wire tempered and if need be, you could easily revert back to stock should the need arises.

Also any idea what the ECU was doing with the info from ignition 1?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Another option is to not cut that wire and use a wire splice connector instead, or cut that wire and solder some extension wires to give you more wire to work with.

33324


Thank you very much for your contribution. The only thing I'm thinking is it would be great if we can identify a tool to remove the pin from the ECU connector. To refine the process. It could reduce the amount of original wire tempered and if need be, you could easily revert back to stock should the need arises.

Also any idea what the ECU was doing with the info from ignition 1?
 

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Thank you very much for your contribution. The only thing I'm thinking is it would be great if we can identify a tool to remove the pin from the ECU connector. To refine the process. It could reduce the amount of original wire tempered and if need be, you could easily revert back to stock should the need arises.

Also any idea what the ECU was doing with the info from ignition 1?
So you pull the pin out of the ECU connector then what? You would still have to process the coil blue/yellow wire for the yellow tach harness wire to plug into. So what would be the advantage? The kit comes with the solution as outlined above and also shown below...male and female bullet connectors that you crimp (and I would also solder) onto the cut blue/yellow coil wire at the ECU. If you want to remove the tach and revert back to stock just unplug the yellow tack harness and plug the male bullet connector into the female connector.

for 2017-2019 models the kit comes with the proper connectors to process the wiring


for the 2020 models it is true plug and play...no wire processing


The #1 coil blue/yellow and #2 coil yellow/blue wires at the ECU receive a signal produced by the crankshaft position sensor also connected to the ECU that determines the correct timing for spark to occur.
 

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Another option is to not cut that wire and use a wire splice connector instead, or cut that wire and solder some extension wires to give you more wire to work with.

View attachment 33324

Those quick splice connectors are for backyard mechanics and should be avoided at all cost. Solder and use shrink tubing to seal the connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It was tight since you only have 3-4” tops of the BLU/YW wire exposed, never considered using those easy-splice connectors. The supplied bullet connectors work well when crimped with the proper crimping tool.


Those quick splice connectors are for backyard mechanics and should be avoided at all cost. Solder and use shrink tubing to seal the connection.
 

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So you pull the pin out of the ECU connector then what? You would still have to process the coil blue/yellow wire for the yellow tach harness wire to plug into. So what would be the advantage? The kit comes with the solution as outlined above and also shown below...

The #1 coil blue/yellow and #2 coil yellow/blue wires at the ECU receive a signal produced by the crankshaft position sensor also connected to the ECU that determines the correct timing for spark to occur.
well hot damn... didnt notice that. it really is that simple.


also thanks for the info regarding the wires purpose.
 

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Great write up. I think you just put adding a tach to bed. For folks that don’t want to cut the wire here is another option. I have used these for years on many bikes for many projects and they can be removed down the road without harm. They are called Posi-Tap. Adding the wire to the tach is the right side wire with exposed copper. The main body of the connector has a pin that pierces the bikes signal wire When it is tightened To the cap.
04742BA3-9F25-4F08-B867-61D81607460A.jpeg
 
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