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Discussion Starter #1
I know there has been quite a few discussions on bars and risers over the past few weeks and months. I also know a few have tried the Biltwell Zed bars and have had vary degrees of success. It took me about 30 minutes to swap bars and like 3 hours to navigate the cables, but for all of those curious, the bars do in fact fit the stock brake lines.

I had a good feeling because the Zeds are 6” more narrow than the stock bars, and the brake line does an annoying zigzag from the master cylinder on its journey to the caliper.

If you detach the brake line from it’s connections at the fender and the lower triple tree, and then feed it so it’s not behind the steering head and all on the brake side, you have plenty of slack.

I simply just zip tied the line in a few places and checked the tension on it. It’s secure and works.

Clutch cable and throttle cables and other wires are fine as long as you take them out of the brackets by the headlight.

If you have any questions, I will try my best to answer them.

Oh and I did drill the bars. The plastic knobs are in the underside of the clamshells, about 5” in from the clutch end and 5 1/4” on the throttle side.

Cheers
 

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I know there has been quite a few discussions on bars and risers over the past few weeks and months. I also know a few have tried the Biltwell Zed bars and have had vary degrees of success. It took me about 30 minutes to swap bars and like 3 hours to navigate the cables, but for all of those curious, the bars do in fact fit the stock brake lines.

I had a good feeling because the Zeds are 6” more narrow than the stock bars, and the brake line does an annoying zigzag from the master cylinder on its journey to the caliper.

If you detach the brake line from it’s connections at the fender and the lower triple tree, and then feed it so it’s not behind the steering head and all on the brake side, you have plenty of slack.

I simply just zip tied the line in a few places and checked the tension on it. It’s secure and works.

Clutch cable and throttle cables and other wires are fine as long as you take them out of the brackets by the headlight.

If you have any questions, I will try my best to answer them.

Oh and I did drill the bars. The plastic knobs are in the underside of the clamshells, about 5” in from the clutch end and 5 1/4” on the throttle side.

Cheers
And the pictures are where?
 

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This is interesting. I think the stock bars are too low for my comfort. Can you add a little more info for a newer member. What is the part number for the bars and where did you get them. As always on any forum. Without pictures it didn’t happen.
 

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I put these same bars on my girlfriend's Rebel and had to buy a longer brake line. On her bike the bars are as far back as they can go without contacting the tank. So it seems like the brake line is only an issue if you try to pull the bars all the way back.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry, I have been trying to upload the pics with my phone, but it appears I may need to use an actual computer (I don’t own one). Maybe I can upload from work, I have the pics on my google drive.
 

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Ok seems as if @ABiz is having some technical difficulties uploading the pics. There is a guy on the Rebel 500 FB group that did the same install and here are a couple of his photos.
I'm on the forum also :grin2:

500km since I switched to the Biltwell and no problem at all! Loooooove the feeling, arms & shoulders
feel way better, I wouldn't go back to the stock handlebars!
 

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I know I want to replace the bars but have questions. It isn’t good enough to know they fit. I understand I may need to replace the brake line. Stock bars are to low and forward for my comfort. I want bars that will raise my sitting position up at least 2 inches and back at least 2 inches. Without removing the stock bars I’m only guessing. Width of stock is 30. Rise is about 3 and pullback around 5 inches. Can someone that removed their bars confirm? That would make shopping much easier.
 

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Dimples are for Harley’s, is for their controls. We have to get smooth bars and either drill holes for the plastic notches in the controls or file them off (which I personally don’t like to do)

thank you, learn something new every day. I'll see how easy it is when I get the bar in.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No problem. Once you take the old bars off, just measure from the end of the bar to the hole where the notch fits in, (they are not the same on each side, I think the throttle sides hole is further away because of the throttle tube).

Put masking tape or painters tape on the bar and mark where you want to drill. It gives the drill bit a little bit to grab onto instead of a smooth painted bar.
 

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By the look of it, this would be a NON abs bike. This does make a difference but peoples acceptance of quite what is acceptable when rerouting brake lines, is vastly different. I, personally, wouldn't do what I've seen on other discussions/threads. This one is hard to make out.
Just my (humble) opinion of course. :wink2:
 

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I was one of the ones who did replace the front brake line on an ABS model bike when using Biltwell Zeds. I'm not sure why there would be a difference in the length of the front line length between ABS non-ABS. In my case, it was definitely stretched too much to use the stock line.
 
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