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2020 CMX 500s
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey fellow Addicts,

I was looking for such issue, but found nothing so far, so I dared to start my very first thread here.
Just bought my first motorcycle ever. I'm now on my first hundreds literally. The bike is a brand new 2020 CMX 500s. The one with the mask.
I've experienced the below issue two times already during these very early miles of the bike.

When I stop at a red lamp, and attempting to shift back to 1 from higher above, the display suddenly shows me a ' - ' sign instead of the actual gear I'm in.
I'm also unable to downshift. Like the gearbox does not respond to my kicking. So I turn the bike of and on, and with a stopped engine I'm trying to shift back to 1. It kinda works, but I can feel that the pedal acts weird still. It does not carry out the changing in the gears every time I kick.
I can't feel any difference moving the clutch though. It feels like it's working properly.
Once I managed to shift back to 1, I ignite, and roll on.

I'm not a tech genius, but if should guess, I'd say it is an electronic system issue, rather than a mechanical one. Is the shifting on this bike, electronically regulated?
Wonder why the display can't identify(?) the gear I'm in. Why can't I shift?

Any advice is most welcomed, as I'm dread that this two wheeled death machine is trying to murder me right at once. 馃グ

Thank you guys!
 

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Hello, "neighbour"馃槉, first try this, when you're not moving and try shift to lower (mostly) gear. If you can't get into gear, release clutch lever and then pull it again, mostls this technique will work for you, or move bike a little when shifting.
But most important thing- plan your ride ahead, eg, if you see red light in front of you, start downshifting accordingly and just before stop, put into first- neutral (personal preferences). Because of very this reason my wife dropped her bike yesterday, she's bit lazy for shifting, and she didn't shift into first before tight hairpin and then... in the middle of bend, instead first, she got neutral and... down she went (nothing broke, nothing hurt, just pride was beaten馃槍)
And as for dashed gear indicator, me think, nature of the beast (pulled clutch and or gearbox between gears).
 

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This happened to me when I first got my bike and I thought something was wrong. I was stuck in neutral and couldn鈥檛 shift to first. If you engage the clutch and rev a tiny bit and try to move forward a little in neutral it should click into first.
 

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try letting out the clutch lever slightly then pull it back in, you should be able to shift gears. also my aftermarket indicator will show '-' whenever the lever is pulled in, only shows gear when you're moving (or you're not holding the clutch lever)
 

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Hello, "neighbour"馃槉, first try this, when you're not moving and try shift to lower (mostly) gear. If you can't get into gear, release clutch lever and then pull it again, mostls this technique will work for you, or move bike a little when shifting.
But most important thing- plan your ride ahead, eg, if you see red light in front of you, start downshifting accordingly and just before stop, put into first- neutral (personal preferences). Because of very this reason my wife dropped her bike yesterday, she's bit lazy for shifting, and she didn't shift into first before tight hairpin and then... in the middle of bend, instead first, she got neutral and... down she went (nothing broke, nothing hurt, just pride was beaten馃槍)
And as for dashed gear indicator, me think, nature of the beast (pulled clutch and or gearbox between gears).
on another topic, @RupertC , do you normally downshift into first while moving? my preference would be stay in 2nd while already moving, and into a turn. I only use 1st gear on startup from stop. never downshift back into 1st while riding at ANY speed.
 

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Hairpins, errm, they're kinda tricky to manage... that means, many times you need first gear to go through, and if you shift from second into first gear in the middle of bend, with insufficient speed, party time begins; usually then you find neutral and with barely moving, lean into curve- paaaarty time- dropping time. So in tight alpine roads with (narrow) hairpins shifting from second to first is common practice, for rightside riders is that particulary for right turns.
And, yes at traffic lights went to first, just before stopping.
 

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2020 CMX 500s
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hello, "neighbour"馃槉, first try this, when you're not moving and try shift to lower (mostly) gear. If you can't get into gear, release clutch lever and then pull it again, mostls this technique will work for you, or move bike a little when shifting.
But most important thing- plan your ride ahead, eg, if you see red light in front of you, start downshifting accordingly and just before stop, put into first- neutral (personal preferences). Because of very this reason my wife dropped her bike yesterday, she's bit lazy for shifting, and she didn't shift into first before tight hairpin and then... in the middle of bend, instead first, she got neutral and... down she went (nothing broke, nothing hurt, just pride was beaten馃槍)
And as for dashed gear indicator, me think, nature of the beast (pulled clutch and or gearbox between gears).
Hey Mate,

Thank you for the detailed explanation! You've shad light for me, pointing out important differences between shifting in a car (that I drive for 20 years by now (Jesus, Christ!)) and how the shifting works on a bike.
It makes sense for me now.
I haven't yet dropped >my< bike. Countless times however on the safety course, but it was their bike. 馃槃
I'm sorry for the beaten pride of your wife, but as she has not been hurt, the pride will also recover very soon, I'm sure. Just keep rollin.

I can't wait to get involved on those tight alpine roads with (narrow) hairpins. It is just a bit farther away from me. #cantwait
 

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There's another option that helped me, after the 600-mile break in, replaced the standard oil with full synthetic, with esters.
Shifts much more precise, and smoother, easier to downshift without clutching in and out.
 

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2020 CMX 500s
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There's another option that helped me, after the 600-mile break in, replaced the standard oil with full synthetic, with esters.
Shifts much more precise, and smoother, easier to downshift without clutching in and out.
Thanks for this!
This is yet another interesting approach, that I should 'grow up' to. Currently I'm not that confident with such tech details. I feel that I simply need some more input on the field to make such decissions.
As for that input, I'm considering to buy an old and ruined MZ ETZ250 that need to be... well, it actually need to be rebuilt. That process would encourage me to make changes, or even modifications on my prime bike.
 

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Not to worry, not really a "tech" issue. Honda Rebels, like many motorcycles, have a "wet" clutch, meaning that the clutch is lubricated by the engine oil. When you change the engine oil and filter, you are also changing the clutch oil and filter. Make sure to use OEM filter,(Honda Oil Filter 15410-MFJ-D01) and do not forget to change the crush washer between the drain plug and the oil pan after every 2 or 3 oil changes. if you can handle an oil change on an engine, it is no more difficult than that. The hardest part for me, finding the required motorcycle engine specific engine oil, full synthetic with esters. Ended up choosing Maxima Pro Plus10W-30, 1 gallon for 40 bucks.
A bit pricey for oil at 10$ per quart, but worth every penny in easier shifting, cooler operating temps, longer lasting engine protection. Nothings too good for my girl.
 

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Hey fellow Addicts,

I was looking for such issue, but found nothing so far, so I dared to start my very first thread here.
Just bought my first motorcycle ever. I'm now on my first hundreds literally. The bike is a brand new 2020 CMX 500s. The one with the mask.
I've experienced the below issue two times already during these very early miles of the bike.

When I stop at a red lamp, and attempting to shift back to 1 from higher above, the display suddenly shows me a ' - ' sign instead of the actual gear I'm in.
I'm also unable to downshift. Like the gearbox does not respond to my kicking. So I turn the bike of and on, and with a stopped engine I'm trying to shift back to 1. It kinda works, but I can feel that the pedal acts weird still. It does not carry out the changing in the gears every time I kick.
I can't feel any difference moving the clutch though. It feels like it's working properly.
Once I managed to shift back to 1, I ignite, and roll on.

I'm not a tech genius, but if should guess, I'd say it is an electronic system issue, rather than a mechanical one. Is the shifting on this bike, electronically regulated?
Wonder why the display can't identify(?) the gear I'm in. Why can't I shift?

Any advice is most welcomed, as I'm dread that this two wheeled death machine is trying to murder me right at once. 馃グ

Thank you guys!
Motorbikes have 'crash' gearboxes with unsynchronised shifts, as you roll to a stop tap down on the gears until you return to N or 1st. If you stop in a high gear you will need to rock the bike and forth as you tap the lever to allow the gear drive dogs to engage, this is the same on every bike. Being new means the shifter is still tight, be firm on the tapping up or down. The -- symbol on the indicator is indicating an incomplete shift, or as it's known a false neutral, ease the clutch out slightly and it may engage normally.
 

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2019 Rebel 300
Joined
205 Posts
Hey fellow Addicts,

I was looking for such issue, but found nothing so far, so I dared to start my very first thread here.
Just bought my first motorcycle ever. I'm now on my first hundreds literally. The bike is a brand new 2020 CMX 500s. The one with the mask.
I've experienced the below issue two times already during these very early miles of the bike.

When I stop at a red lamp, and attempting to shift back to 1 from higher above, the display suddenly shows me a ' - ' sign instead of the actual gear I'm in.
I'm also unable to downshift. Like the gearbox does not respond to my kicking. So I turn the bike of and on, and with a stopped engine I'm trying to shift back to 1. It kinda works, but I can feel that the pedal acts weird still. It does not carry out the changing in the gears every time I kick.
I can't feel any difference moving the clutch though. It feels like it's working properly.
Once I managed to shift back to 1, I ignite, and roll on.

I'm not a tech genius, but if should guess, I'd say it is an electronic system issue, rather than a mechanical one. Is the shifting on this bike, electronically regulated?
Wonder why the display can't identify(?) the gear I'm in. Why can't I shift?

Any advice is most welcomed, as I'm dread that this two wheeled death machine is trying to murder me right at once. 馃グ

Thank you guys!
Totally normal for most motorcycles, just try to shift while moving, even a little bit.
 

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2019 Rebel 300A/2020 CB500F A
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546 Posts
Reviving what seems to be a long dead thread... apologies.

Not a Rebel, but a CB500f with the exact engine and gearbox, and I'm having a false neutral issue all of a sudden 2nd into 1st. I'm just done the break-in period on it, so still fairly new and under warranty. I'll be calling the dealer first thing tomorrow.

After a long day of smooth riding today, I noticed a couple times towards the end of the ride where I'd try to get into 2nd, and I'd hear a very nasty sounding clunk. Then on the way down to 1st as I'm slowing to a stop, I get the "-" symbol on the gear indicator, which the manual says it means the shift wasn't complete. I have to re-engage the clutch and attempt to kick down again for 1st to show up. This is all under very normal riding conditions, not pushing it or lugging it.

I adjusted the clutch Freeplay, and started shifting more deliberately, and that seemed to make the clunking/grinding sound (really horrible sound and doesn't sound healthy at all) from 1st to 2nd go away (but sometimes I still get true neutral on the way up). False neutral on the way down though didn't seem to go away with the clutch lever adjustment 馃し鈥嶁檪锔.

That clunking sounds awful... hoping I didn't do permanent damage...anyway, ideas? Thoughts?
 

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If you have too much clutch cable free play the clutch plates won't disengage fully whenever the lever is pulled back and touching the bar grip. This makes it difficult to change gears whenever the bike is stationary.
 

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2019 Rebel 300A/2020 CB500F A
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If you have too much clutch cable free play the clutch plates won't disengage fully whenever the lever is pulled back and touching the bar grip. This makes it difficult to change gears whenever the bike is stationary.
The clutch freeplay is set correctly, and actually it's a non issue at all to shift while stationery I find. Clunking (more like crunching) is happening when shifting on the move 1st into 2nd, and hitting false neutral 2nd into first.
 

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At the end of a days ride the plates end up thicker than at the start, which is why you need a minimum amount of free play, but if you're manually adjusting it when it occurs that would rule out a clutch problem. Chain whip from too much slack tends to interfere with the lower gears more than the higher ones or perhaps its something internally which cannot be fixed with external adjustment.
 

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2019 Rebel 300A/2020 CB500F A
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At the end of a days ride the plates end up thicker than at the start, which is why you need a minimum amount of free play, but if you're manually adjusting it when it occurs that would rule out a clutch problem. Chain whip from too much slack tends to interfere with the lower gears more than the higher ones or perhaps its something internally which cannot be fixed with external adjustment.
What you're saying makes a lot of sense about the freeplay. The freeplay was set incorrectly (too tight) by a hair from factory, which is the first thing I looked at and adjusted and ended up solving the crunching sound issue on the way up to 2nd. No change on the false neutrals on the way down though. I'll try it again today, if it continues to grind and/or give me a "-" symbol then I'm dropping it off for dealer to figure it out.

Edit: also, it was too wet out to ride yesterday, but in the garage at least shifting 1st,N, 2nd and back down again while stationery is completely smooth and sure. So the issue seems to only be happening while in motion as far as I can tell.
 

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2019 Rebel 300A/2020 CB500F A
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Ok...another update on my particular issue (read up a few posts if interested):

After adjusting the freeplay even further (I set it to 13mm cold with handlebars dead straight), the issue seems to have completely resolved itself. Went for a half hour ride over lunch, and gear shifts were smooth as butter, no missed shifts, false neutrals, or grinding. I also made sure to not be accidentally too lazy or soft on the pedal.

I admit I should have checked the freeplay when I first got it, but here we are 馃し鈥嶁檪锔. Not sure why the freeplay didn't present itself as a problem until after putting on break in miles though...anyway. I'll monitor and if it happens again I'll let the dealer handle it - don't want to be without my bike for weeks if I don't absolutely need to.

Thx for your input.
 

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Hey fellow Addicts,

I was looking for such issue, but found nothing so far, so I dared to start my very first thread here.
Just bought my first motorcycle ever. I'm now on my first hundreds literally. The bike is a brand new 2020 CMX 500s. The one with the mask.
I've experienced the below issue two times already during these very early miles of the bike.

When I stop at a red lamp, and attempting to shift back to 1 from higher above, the display suddenly shows me a ' - ' sign instead of the actual gear I'm in.
I'm also unable to downshift. Like the gearbox does not respond to my kicking. So I turn the bike of and on, and with a stopped engine I'm trying to shift back to 1. It kinda works, but I can feel that the pedal acts weird still. It does not carry out the changing in the gears every time I kick.
I can't feel any difference moving the clutch though. It feels like it's working properly.
Once I managed to shift back to 1, I ignite, and roll on.

I'm not a tech genius, but if should guess, I'd say it is an electronic system issue, rather than a mechanical one. Is the shifting on this bike, electronically regulated?
Wonder why the display can't identify(?) the gear I'm in. Why can't I shift?

Any advice is most welcomed, as I'm dread that this two wheeled death machine is trying to murder me right at once. 馃グ

Thank you guys!
 
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