Power switched source location? - Honda Rebel 300 & 500 Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2018, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Question Power switched source location?

Hello everyone! I am going to be installing the Denali D2 2.0 LED lights in the front of my bike but after reviewing the install instructions, am a bit confused. The instructions (found here) state to connect to a "power switched source"? Does that mean a location that is hot once you turn the key? Can anyone suggest where I can tap in for front lights?

Here's a picture in the included instructions
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2018, 09:01 AM
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Not to be an a$$, but the definition of a switched power source and tap location suggestions are literally contained in step 1 of the instructions you posted.
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2017 Honda Rebel 500 - Black
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2018, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CueBaller View Post
Not to be an a$$, but the definition of a switched power source and tap location suggestions are literally contained in step 1 of the instructions you posted.
I should have been clearer. Step 1 has suggestions, but I wanted confirmation from people on the forum. Specifically, I don't know where the low beam plugs in or what the plug looks like. Also, do I just splice the wire to tap in?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 09:47 AM
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I think you have to ask yourself the question 'when do I want the new lights to come on?'
If you want them to be on all of the time, pick a positive (any positive) that comes on when you turn on the ignition. If, on the other hand, you want them to be on with high beam only, then you need to find the positive that feeds the existing high beam and connect to that.


The short answer is that both these positives will be connected to the headlight bulb via a plastic connector/plug, so get in there and take your pick. You won't know which one is which until you try, and you'll have to test to confirm once 'connected'.

The longer answer. I'm making one big assumption here, and that is the fact that being 'LED' lights, the current draw is going to be minimal, and if that is indeed the case, then finding your 'switched' feed as mentioned above will be fine. If, however, these new lights will be drawing any 'substantial' current, then you should be feeding them direct from the battery and using the 'switched' wire to 'turn them on' via a relay. What is substantial current? I don't know, I'd guess at anything approaching 250mA, anything more will, 'perhaps', start blowing fuses.


Anyway... once you've found your positive, you can indeed 'splice into it' as you've suggested. Best and simplest way is via one of those little blue connector things that just crimp on without having to peel back insulation and all that that entails. Don't forget that you'll also need a negative feed, found anywhere for your convenience.


Best of luck.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 09:52 AM
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Opel,

I wish I could explain electrical hookups as well as you have stated above, including about when to use a relay.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 10:16 AM
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The illustration on the original post shows a posi tap. You donít strip insulation to use them. They are great for adding accessories without having to cut or strip wires on the bike.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Prgrmerror View Post
The illustration on the original post shows a posi tap. You donít strip insulation to use them. They are great for adding accessories without having to cut or strip wires on the bike.
Okay, taking the bike apart now to try this. I don't know what a posi-tap is, so here goes nothing
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-28-2018, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmfpo View Post
Okay, taking the bike apart now to try this. I don't know what a posi-tap is, so here goes nothing
KM,

Any automotive supply house will have the "Taps" that you need, in various sizes. It never hurts to have an assortment of "Taps" in your tool box.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-29-2018, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Good day everyone. I just wanted to thank you for your input and show you how things went with the Denali lights install.

So, I first tapped into the running light for the front signal. Well... that worked great until I turned a blinker on and the Denali lights lost power. Same thing when I used the hazards. Basically, anytime the signal indicator needed to blink, my Denali's were dead.

So I kept poking around and thought, aha! I'll tap into the headlight itself. Well... I tried that, but using my light tester, none of the wires were "hot" when ignition was on despite the headlight being on??? The first picture below shows where I found this to happen.

I kept testing random wires in the front signal and noticed the blinkers each have 3 plastic pieces. The blue/orange conenctor, but then also a big black plastic brick and a big white brick, each with a set of wires. I'm not sure what these wires do, but I found a hot wire that is only on w/the ignition on and never loses power after I tested all my electronics. So I tapped into that one, the black with blue wire, pic below. Any idea what this wire is or why the headlight wires didn't work?

It took a long time to run the wires as the harness was huge and the gas tank is a **** to get back on into place (mainly lining up those hoses) but it all worked out. Thank you all!
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