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Throttle blipping / rev matching

11K views 36 replies 17 participants last post by  billnoroville 
#1 ·
I self-proclaim I'm a newbie to motorcycles and frankly manual transmissions in general (I drive an auto but I know HOW to drive stick, just don't own one)

I've heard this term "Throttle blipping" thrown out lately in motorcycling conversations and what not, and I understand what it is, basically matching engine RPM's to wheel RPM's during a downshift.

Does the Rebel 500 benefit from this? Every YouTube video I see talking about it is recorded on sport bikes. I started to wonder if this was a sport bike practice, or something used on bikes with quick shifters, or something else entirely I'm not connecting. Nobody has mentioned it here that I can find, wasn't mentioned in the safety course when getting endorsement. So what's the deal on this business?

Educate me
 
#2 ·
The safety class refers to it as rev matching. It's basically to ensure a smoother, less jumpy downshift If you're going to use engine braking rather than just coasting and braking.

Personally, I just wait to downshift until the rpms are in the right range for the next lower gear, then downshift and ease the clutch back out.
 
#15 ·
I rev-match while downshifting. It's not something that's required, at all. Like everyone one said, if you downshift at the appropriate time and let the clutch out smoothly, there's little-to-no tire chirp and definitely no rear lockup.

I began doing it because I ride in a lot of congestion and traffic, and many times I'll need to make a sudden gear change, maneuver, and I need to quickly get into a better gear safely. I began practicing the technique and now it's just habit for me...but even I know that in most scenarios there's little need for me to do it.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I've never done it because i rev out of a shift up or shift down, I've felt the bike getting pretty close to doing it before though whenever not rev matching. You don't have to do it a crazy amount and be that jerk in 8000rpms, also it really helps with and any jerky movements. The Instructor at my MSF class even told us to. All I'm pointing out is be careful you guys! <3 I've had friends tell me that's how they've crashed in the past.


I guess my mentors were just different than yours. Do you and good luck.
 
#21 ·
If I'm coming to a stop or slowing down a lot I'll just downshift at low rpm and ease the clutch back, but I rev match all the time when I'm dealing with traffic or driving more 'spiritedly'. Just downshifting and using the clutch doesn't make sense to do if I'm not slowing down or if I'm braking towards a corner and I need to be back on the throttle the next moment.

Same as my car. (Wet vs dry clutch wear aside) If I was driving a twisty road moving up and down the gears I would never just throw it in a lower gear and ease the clutch, I'd either be rev matching while braking or if I had the rpms left, rev matching down a gear or two before braking towards a turn.

Even if it's not totally necessary it's faster, smoother, and really easy to get the hang of.
 
#26 ·
Applies to cars as well. No need to just dump the clutch and send you passenger flying forward. Done well, it's smooth and better for the clutch. If you double-clutch a car the synchros align too. Maybe no big deal in terms of synchro wear but I like knowing the revs are perfectly aligned so I usually double clutch.

I rev match the bike on a down shift if I'm moving along and about to accelerate. i.e., no braking and I want a lower gear for what's coming up.
 
#24 ·
If the rear wheel locks up, just keep the bike upright perfectly straight. I locked the rear brake when braking hard on my gs500e. Also I have down shifted my Honda 300 from 3 to 2 and locked/slides the rear tire going into my driveway.
I ride for 6 to 3, 1 and 2 are for starting and I ride in 3rd on slow roads
I wish 5th gear was set to 45/50 mph before shifting into 6th at 38 mph. I want to do 45 in 5th so I have one gear. If I need to go faster. Lol.
1-5 and only 38 mph? Then it's all 6th gear 38 to 75?
I hate the engineer and team who gear these bikes.
No rpm gauge. U don't need it. Blow it up and buy a new one. Sucker.
 
#27 ·
agree with the other manual cage drivers here. rev matching isn't about being "that guy." it makes for smoother shifts and relieves some mechanical stress on the drivetrain and powertrain. It might not be as important on a bike during casual riding, but it's not a bad habit to be in. Unlike my sv650 with crazy strong engine braking, i can't see a rebel locking up the rear wheel without rev matched downshifts but I'd rather not take the chance of my ol lady taking a spill because she just clutched in, downshifted, then lets the clutch back out not realizing she was going too fast. learn how to do it and know that on any bike, it's a skill in the toolbelt ready to be used if needed.
 
#28 · (Edited)
flyinbrianbmx You are probably nice people (person). Your friends are idiots if they run their bikes hard so they make more noise.

My 2 cents: Rev matching and / or blipping the throttle is no more or less than dealing with engine braking and rear tire rotational speed.

If I am at 8k rpms at say 60 mph coming up on a 35mph corner. I want to slow slightly and exit using more power so I would catch a lower gear (go from 4th to 3rd) so I have better power exiting the corner. Makes sense?

Problem is, If 8k=60mph then 9k=60mph in 3rd gear. Down shifting and dropping the clutch forces the engine to rapidly increase rpms from 8 to 9k. If the engine can not build up the rpms quickly enough the rear tire gets hit with engine braking and can loose traction and cause a crash. When I do this I have 2 choices. Let the clutch out slower to let the engine build up rpms (or brake to slow down the rear tire) or rev the engine with the throttle as I pull in the clutch for the shift.

High performance bikes are starting to come with slipper clutches to make this transition smoother. I hear it works well.

One more thing. A motor with a redline of 8k like our 1100's has a lot of engine braking but it can be electronically reduced. I have my set to low. If you accidentally press the downshift button on the DCT version, it will downshift instantly and you can over rev the engine and simulate about the same problem of the tire breaking loose. The dual clutch shifting is very fast but as I ride mostly in the 3500 to 4500 range the engine braking is far less at lower rpms than at the 8k redline. Most 1100 riders I feel are not running their bikes hard to go fast or make more noise.

Just to brag; I had very old 1987 VFR400R V-4 with a 14k redline that it could hit in all 6 gears. Not much engine braking but also not much power at 8k either. Downshifted it often at 10-11k.
 
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#29 ·
flyinbrianbmxMy 2 cents: Rev matching and / or blipping the throttle is no more or less than dealing with engine braking and rear tire rotational speed.

If I am at 8k rpms at say 60 mph coming up on a 35mph corner. I want to slow slightly and exit using more power so I would catch a lower gear (go from 4th to 3rd) so I have better power exiting the corner. Makes sense?

Problem is, If 8k=60mph then 9k=60mph in 3rd gear. Down shifting and dropping the clutch forces the engine to rapidly increase rpms from 8 to 9k. If the engine can not build up the rpms quickly enough the rear tire gets hit with engine braking and can loose traction and cause a crash. When I do this I have 2 choices. Let the clutch out slower to let the engine build up rpms (or brake to slow down the rear tire) or rev the engine with the throttle as I pull in the clutch for the shift.
Excellent explanation of the mechanical physics involved. Rev matching isn't a show off thing. It's a proper use of the mechanical components in the machine. Anyone that's driven a 13 speed or 18 speed big rig knows this too -- you aren't downshifting if you don't put the pedal on the floor and get the engine revs lined up with wheel revs. There's simply no way you're getting it back in gear if you miss your chance or do it wrong. While commuter vehicles are much more forgiving, the same concept applies. Rev matching makes the machine run much smoother, regardless if the operator is being a squid or otherwise.
 
#30 ·
I have put over 10k on my 88 Hawk. By far it has the sweetest transmission of any bike I have owned. The Rebel DCT for the most part shifts where you hardly notice it (much like a car). Point is I think you can rev match at slow speeds and low rpms if you desire to reduce wear on drive components. Being smooth can happen at any speed or rpms. It doesn't have to happen in a fast curve fully revved out it can be done going 40 miles an hour on a city street or whatever.

Not everyone runs an engine up to the redline to shift through the gears but can if they choose. With lots of experience on any given bike one learns and feels the drive train and smooth effortless precision shifting comes naturally and the drive slack is never felt. The only thing noticed then is the pleasant exhaust song that sings as we go along.

As a kid, my dad was a logger. I would ride along many times. He drove a Peterbilt with a 5speed main 4 speed auxiliary so 20 gears forward. He never missed a gear and never ground one either even when shift both boxes at the same time using both hands. He was fast, smooth and precise. He knew his gear ratios well.

I suspect many riders have the same smoothness and never think about it riding.
 
#36 ·
Engine break-in is best done by not maintaining a steady RPM for a long period.
Better to ride normally (forget the 2000RPM) and keep going through the gears, up and down.
I think 2000 RPM in 6th and accelerating is lugging the engine.
It's your bike, ride how you see fit. I would not fall in love with the 2000 RPM idea.
 
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