Bigger Bar Risers and Gauge Solution - Honda Rebel 300 & 500 Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Bigger Bar Risers and Gauge Solution

I was looking for a way to get the bars back a little bit. After looking around at all the options (new bars, kspeed risers, ROX type risers,) I saw the following item on Ebay: Black Handlebar Pullback Risers.

Had them installed for a week or so, and they seem to be working nicely. The risers fit just right on the 500 ABS Rebel. The curve pulls the bars back and up over the tank with just enough clearance. The end result is much more comfy then before.

The gauges donít fit in the default brackets anymore, but I engineered a RAM mount solution thatís actually pretty elegant. Description and pics at the end of this post.

Since this is the first I've seen of these risers on the new Rebel, here are some install notes:
- These replace the handlebar clamps entirely. The existing clamps are threaded through the top triple tree with a bolt, and are easy to remove.

- You will need to remove the top triple clamp entirely for this install. The steps I took to doing *this were:
  • Unbolt headlight (2x hex bolts)
  • Unbolt turn signals (1x hex on each side)
  • Unbolt brake reservoir, tie up securely on side of bike with reservoir up.
  • Remove gauges entirely (2 bolts, and unplug them from the wiring.)
  • Unbolt bars. Without the brake reservoir, they can dangle right off the front out of the way.
  • Undo top triple tree nut (I used a 30mm socket, I think a 29 would also work.)
  • Unto large hex on each side of triple tree.
  • Lift the triangular black top triple tree part off.
  • I found this last part was easier to remove / install with the front wheel off the ground. I used a wood block under the right side exhaust to prop it up on the kickstand, which worked for this purpose.

This is a great time to use a pin spanner wrench to tighten the steering head nut if you feel itís loose.

- With the tree off, remove the black crown nuts from the bottom and the handlebar clamps should push off.
- Now head to the hardware store. I brought the top triple clamp and the new risers with me to check for fit.
- The threads on the new risers accept a 1/4" bolt. I bought a high grade 2" long bolt from the hardware store to fit the triple tree. This bolt just fits through the rubber washers.
- I had to drill out the holes on the flat metal piece that holds the turn signals and cables so it would fit the new bolts. It felt like aluminum and was an easy drill out with an electric drill.

- Stick the new risers on, tighten most of the way. (bolt head - washer - cable holder - rubber - triple tree - rubber - new riser.)

- Reassemble the top of the bike! Getting the top tree back on is where I HAD to lift the front wheel to get the steering stem and forks to all three line up.

- Start locking things down, put the bars on. Before you rebolt the headlight, tighten down the new risers all the way (you can get a socket up under there easily with the light off.)

- Check the cable lengths, make sure nothing is binding. I didn't see any problems, all the stock cables seemed long enough.

- Put the brake handle back on. I routed the brake line back behind the triple tree to make it fit.

----------------

At this point you should have everything locked down except the gauges, which are still free floating. I found that the stock bar clamps with the gauge bolt holes DO fit on those new risers, but the gauge cluster hits the tank when you put it on. Boo.

BUT, the gauge cluster is really easy to fiddle with when itís unplugged. The back plastic cover comes off with 3 phillips screws, and you can mount any kind of bracket hardware that you want to it. I got one of the screw in RAM balls and plopped it right in the hole where the little circular clip had been. Then I used a RAM handlebar mount and shorty connector bar to put the gauges back. As a bonus, the angle and height is now adjustable!

The only thing I'd do differently is tidier cable management up front, and easy fix (though unplugging the gauges does reset the clock.)

--------------------

Overall, this was 1 morning's work, including a trip to the hardware store. I'm relatively handy, but entirely self taught when it comes to motorcycles. I think anyone with mechanical inclination could do this install. Just pay attention to every bolt that comes out and make sure they all get tightened back up.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 03:39 PM
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Looks great!! Might be exactly what I need..
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"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didnít do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 03:54 PM
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Very nice. I've just fitted the Honda ones today. Looks like a similar position in the end but yours looks really clean. Good job.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunf View Post
Very nice. I've just fitted the Honda ones today. Looks like a similar position in the end but yours looks really clean. Good job.
I'd love to see a pic of your setup with the Honda risers @dunf
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 03:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zohararad View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunf View Post
Very nice. I've just fitted the Honda ones today. Looks like a similar position in the end but yours looks really clean. Good job.
I'd love to see a pic of your setup with the Honda risers @dunf
There you go...
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 04:44 AM
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Kjeck! Nice job.
I like what you've done with the speedo.

Twizz
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 01:50 PM
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Kjeck:
Really like what you did to relocate the speedometer. After seeing your pictures I want to do a similar mod. Does the screw in RAM ball with a 10mm thread just fit in the hole (where the little circular clip had been)? Then did you secure it with a nut and washer? Thanks
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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The RAM goes straight into the hole. It's the RAM ball designed for cameras ( search "Ram Mount 1-Inch Ball with 1/4-Inch 20 Male Threaded Post for Cameras") and a 1/4" nut and washer was all it took.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 06:23 PM
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kjeck: Thanks very much for the information, I appreciate it. That was an excellent job you did. Thanks again....John
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Just an update - I did have to go back into the gauges and add a lock nut to keep the RAM ball from coming loose. Some blue loctite would have done the trick too.
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