500F or 500R front springs in our Rebels? - Page 3 - Honda Rebel 300 & 500 Forum
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:16 PM
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 68
Originally Posted by DaveRS23 View Post
I think I finally have a combination that will work. And for only about $25. The two things that I had to do was to eliminate the tight coils at the bottom of the fork springs and to have more preload on the springs. When I only added preload with the stock or with the 500X springs, it only further compressed the tighter coils at the bottom without having any impact on ride height or firmness. And those same tighter coils on the heavier 500X springs also prevented any progress. So clearly those pesky tighter coils had to go.

I used the slightly heavier 500X spring that I already had for my mod, but a stock Rebel spring would do just as well. And a spring from Honda is only about $25. The tighter coils at the bottom of our springs make up about 1/3 of the spring. So I cut my original springs at the transition point between the tighter coils and the wider coils. I then cut the donor spring at the same point and then cut the remaining spring into 2 equal pieces. Conveniently, when the section of tighter coils is removed and replaced with 1/2 of the length of wider coils from a donor spring, the resulting overall length is basically the same as a stock spring. That meant that only one donor spring is needed for the conversion rather than two.

There is a plastic spacer between the spring and the cap on top of the fork. I cut a piece of 3/4" PVC to fit into the spacer for a bit more reinforcement. Then I took a flat washer that just fits inside the fork tube and welded the hole up so that I could use it as a plate on top of the spacer to push against. I then drilled and taped the aluminum cap on top of the fork. I threaded an all-thread bolt into the cap so that I could adjust the pre-load. A couple of inches of pre-load makes a noticeable difference. And with an adjustable pre-load, it can be set to personal preference. I thought about Heli-Coiling the cap, but there doesn't seem to be that much pressure on the threads. But adding steel threads there may be a good idea. Since I didn't add them, should the threads in my cap eventually fail, I'll post that.

The front does sit higher now and it is stiffer in the front. But is not too stiff at all at the pre-load that it is at now. I didn't change the fork oil only because I was too lazy to pull the forks. But a heavier oil would probably be a good idea with the stiffer springs. It may get the heavier fork oil this winter.

I see that the YSS springs just posted also eliminates the tighter coils in their replacement springs. And their pictures do a good job of showing almost exactly what my spring plate and cap look like. I just got this completed over the weekend and have only ridden the bike a couple of times. I plan to experiment with the pre-load some to see what I like. I actually used 4" long bolts, so I have plenty of adjustment available. Once I settle on the setting that I like, I'll swap in the proper length bolts so that there isn't a couple inches of bolt sticking out of my fork caps.

Awesome work, pics please??
I'm going to air mine, but I don't know when I'll find the time.
Kaptor is offline  
post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 39
I didn't shoot any pics. Sorry. It really isn't hard at all. Get an extra spring. Cut the springs as described. Make a plate to go on top of the spacer. Drill and tap the fork cap. Screw a bolt into the cap.

I have had bikes with air. After awhile, they bleed off and I had to reset them before I ride. The adjuster bolts won't bleed or back off.
DaveRS23 is offline  

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