Make your own Paddock Stand/Rear Stand - Honda Rebel 300 & 500 Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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Make your own Paddock Stand/Rear Stand

There was a flutter of interest in my project so I decided to come up with a CMX500/CMX300 specific stand that would not require the standard muffler/silencer/exhaust to be removed.

I wanted something simpler than my initial design so that it could be fabricated by anybody with the required tools or access to somebody who has a well stocked workshop.

Rather than use different sizes of steel, I've chosen one size for simplicity. I've also gone for simplicity in the actual design. Only seven cuts are required to get the tubes for the frame, and from there on it's easy peasy.

Lets start with materials.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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Materials

My list of materials is based on good old Aussie Bunnings Hardware. By looking at the items you should be able to source identical or very similar items at your local outlets.

First you will need metal tube for the frame (3 lengths x 1 metre each).

https://www.bunnings.com.au/metal-ma...-tube_p1130465

Wheels were stripped from 50mm casters (castors) and the inner plain bearing removed so that 8mm dia bolts or steel rod can be used as axles.
Four wheels give a safe working load of 200kg.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/easyroll...astor_p3940296

Next is some high pressure PVC hose/tube for the insulators on the yokes to prevent metal contact on the swing arms.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-...-hose_p4920264

Your hardware store may have shorter lengths so don't buy a whole roll unless you can use the rest of it.

The last item is 8mm dia steel rod/bar. This is used for the yokes and the two axles.
If your hardware doesn't have suitable lengths, your local metal supplier should have off-cuts that shouldn't break the bank.

You can also use 8mm bolts/nuts for the axles, but make sure the threaded length doesn't extend into the wheel area as the threads will chew the wheels out.

It's also good to use washers on the outside of the wheel, so four needed.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/search/p...less%20washers

That's the basic list.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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Tools

The basic tools you will need are as follows.

Work Bench and Bench vise.

Marking Out

Combination square.
Scriber or pencil.
Tape measure and steel rule (or a 1 metre rule ideally).

Cutting Out

Hacksaw (or cutoff wheel)
Files (for deburring and cleaning up)

Drilling

Power Drill
3mm pilot drill bit
8mm HSS drill bit

Layout for welding

Rules, squares and clamps (assuming your welder has a suitable bench).

An example of the basics.

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Last edited by JimInOz; 11-08-2017 at 02:51 AM. Reason: add tools
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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Material Cutting

With only three lengths of steel to cut up, it's fairly easy.

Remember the Golden Rule, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!

Below is a guide for cutting the required frame parts.

If you use a cut-off wheel, ensure you account for the width of the wheel and keep identical parts exactly the same length.

Cut two of the 1 metre tubes at 700mm. That gives two bottom rails and two uprights.

Cut the remaining tube at 650mm, and then cut the 650mm piece exactly in half to give you the two cross rails (approx 325mm ea).

The remaining 350mm length can be cut at dead centre on a 45║ angle and then each end cut at 45║ to make a gusset for each side.

CAUTION

Ensure you cut the 45║ ends at the correct angle.


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Last edited by JimInOz; 11-08-2017 at 03:03 AM.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Drilling

Now to drill holes to accept the axles for the wheels.

If you've found different sized wheels/axles, just make allowances for the right sized holes.

At the end of each 700mm lengths, mark an centre punch a point exactly mid-way between each side and 15mm from the end of the tube (use 45║ combo square to mark centre from each side end).

If using a hand drill, mark identically on both sides and then drill a 3mm pilot hole from each side, and then drill the 8mm hole from each side.

If you have a drill press, just true it all up and drill both sides at once.

Nearly done.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 03:28 AM Thread Starter
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The Yokes

Rather than a complex (to fabricate) set of swivel crutches, a simple V form yoke is used to hold the swing arm in position. Protection is obtained by using PVC high pressure tube/hose on the two metal arms of each yoke.

Fabrication is simply cutting some 8mm dia steel rod/bar to 100 mm. Four are needed.

Mark each length at centre and use a tube bender to make a 45║ bend at midpoint.

If you don't have access to a bender, place the length vertically in a vise between alloy or hardwood jaws and use some steel tube as a lever to bend to 45║.

Place two of the bent parts flat on a welding bench and weld the lower legs together.
Repeat for the other two parts.

Take the two uprights and cut an angle to allow clearance from the swing arm when the upright goes over centre.

Now weld the yokes to the uprights as shown below.

When the two parts are cool, soak two suitable lengths of the PVC tube in boiling water for about five minutes and then push on to the arms of the yokes.

It should look like this (I hope).

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
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Have to take a break and prepare dinner for My Darlin who's home soon.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Welding / Finishing

OK, I'm back on the job.

Now that all of the cutting and drilling has been done, it's just a matter of welding the uprights to the lower rails.
Do this on a flat bench and clamp both pieces to the bench to prevent heat warping the tubes. Make sure the yokes face the right way (to the rear) and the axle holes are in the right position.

When the upright is welded, fit the gusset as shown below and weld in place.

Repeat for the other side.

Set up both welded assemblies on a bench and clamp in place so that the distance from centre to centre or the yokes is 295mm. Check that all is square and that the distance at the rear is 295mm centre to centre.

The back cross bar can be placed equidistant from each edge and welded. Then the second cross bar can be done in the same way.

Clean up all welds and surfaces, hit with some paint, put plastic end caps in the back of the rails and cross bars, fit wheels and axles and you're ready to go.

Please ensure somebody assists you if you are unfamiliar with lifting the bike!

I've included JPG shots of all drawings as the first lot are not too clear.

If anybody wants my amateurish Google Sketchup files just ping me a PM.

Main drawing below.



The others, hope they are a bit clearer.



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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 06:39 AM
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Wow this is incredible of you to design and write out so easily to follow. Thanks so much. This is certainly going to be a winter project for me!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 02:51 AM
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Hi everyone, thanks to Jim┤s project documentation I made this stand. It took me about 3 hours of work. I used just basic tools (grinder, drill and simple welder) so the result is not as perfect aj Jim┤s, but I am pretty satisfied with it and it fits perfectly!
As wheels I used big ball bearings. Thanks again, Jim
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