Unscrewing bolts from rear fender was this difficult? - Honda Rebel 300 & 500 Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Unscrewing bolts from rear fender was this difficult?

Hello.

I recently bought a set of Viking saddlebags for my Honda Rebel 500 ABS.
I managed to remove a bolt from the rear fender, but other bolts won't even budge!

Is this normal? How did you remove side bolts from the rear fender?

Thank you and have a nice day.

Last edited by 01-7700; 08-31-2017 at 05:46 AM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 07:50 PM
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Strong allen wrench, a breaker bar, and a lot of elbow grease... those suckers were tight!

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 08:40 PM
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Tw,

I used a 3' long breaker bar with an Allen Socket Wrench. One of the bolts broke off and I had to drill it out. I used a left hand drill bit on the bolt I snapped off. Usually with a left hand twist drill before you drill very far the bolt will spin out, not on this bolt.

I have no idea why Honda would have anything that tight just to hold a fender in place. I suspect that there may be some clear thread locker on the bolts.

You can get a breaker bar and a set of Metric Allen Socket Wrenches pretty cheap at Harbor Freight. If you have a soldering iron, you may want to try holding it in the head of the bolt keeping the heat on for a couple of minutes, if there is thread locker that will help melt it loose.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tw.song View Post
Hello.

I recently bought a set of Viking saddlebags for my Honda Rebel 500 ABS.
I managed to remove a bolt from the rear fender, but other bolts won't even bodge!

Is this normal? How did you remove side bolts from the rear fender?

Thank you and have a nice day.

I am thinking of getting a set of the Viking saddlebags (med) even with the cost of shipping to Canada, it is cheaper then the option from Honda. What ones did you get and can you post pictures/opinion once you get them installed.?

Thanks
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 08:35 AM
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I stripped one bolt and had to buy a bolt extractor, then resorted to an impact gun. Made it sooooo much easier. Highly suggest using an impact gun everyone.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 09:37 AM
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Bill,

I tried an impact driver and it just stripped the socket out of the cheap bolts. I then forced a Torx Drive Bit in the socket and used the 3' breaker bar and that worked on all but the one that snapped off.

Fender bolts do not need to be that tight.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2017, 11:59 AM
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By the way, the passenger foot peg screws were not tightened enough... and I lost them on the road.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-23-2017, 02:44 PM
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By the way, the passenger foot peg screws were not tightened enough... and I lost them on the road.
Did you have your dealer take the first service on the bike? If so, they should have gone over the whole bike and re-thighten every single bolt on it.
Sucks thou...
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 06:11 AM
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I did not explain entirely...
I use to take off passengers attributes often. And my wife wanted to help and took off the passenger foot peg and put back the screws but without tightening too hard.
She thought it could damage the thread.
So the screw felt down I don't know where on the road....

So, it's my fault, not my dealer work
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 03:45 PM
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Removed the passenger pegs and its holder at the left side. The screws were tight as ****! Even broke one tool to loosen this dam screw...

By the way, is there a nice fitting screw/thing for the hole in the rear fender where the passenger seat was locked? The back one is ok, the forward one (just a hole) looks bad and is already rusty...
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